2016-07-25 09.43.26

Seasonal changes

 
As more light shines in the daytime more flowers come to life. Some of our spring flowers are coming to the end of their season.

There are summer flowers blooming everywhere from the meadows to the hedges and the rivers and streams

The red clover and fuschia are beginning to bloom across the countryside along with the rather unlikely suspect the hawthorn is flowering, however be careful as when you are plucking these flowers they have a tendency to fall like cherry blossoms littering the undergrowth with its tiny white petal, wild garlic and leek flowers are still going strong but are coming to the end of their seasons.

While most flowers this time of year are perfectly edible some are harmful if ingested in large quantities, or if eaten raw, though may be eaten if cooked.

As always be sure of what you are picking before you eat it. Also keep an eye out for wild berries starting to flower at the moment wild strawberries are flowering at the moment if you know where they are.

We are using a variety of wild herbs and flowers in our restaurant in the square Tralee Croí. Come in and experience homegrown and wild food like no other.

Follow on Instagram and Twitter @chefpaulc and the restaurant Instagram and Twitter @croitralee and on Facebook​ @croirestaurant 

CROI new beginings

So having worked hard and as I said before giving every last drop to work, I’ve come to the point where we felt like opening my own. Teamed with chef Noel and Paul from the Tralee culinary gangsters, we’ve open a restaurant. The excitement is huge and so is the work load. Noel and Paul both in the kitchen and me front of house. Now I get to give the same dedication to this my own as I have for others so many times before. We have learned so much over the years and now we sit at are own table. We know all the right producers with a menu that consists with everything Irish and 97% of it from Kerry. Followed by carefully selected wines to marry the stunning food that’s leaving the kitchen. Chef Noel has a chump of lamb from Banna strand produced by Peter Curran of the well bred butcher and for this we have a rioja, supplied by Stephen Wallace of Ardfert. A full bodied red that explodes in your mouth with flavour which excentuates the flavour of the lamb. The lamb is tender and packed with flavor. Some light dressing and trimming because on this stage the lamb doesn’t need much company. Together they are perfection.

Follow kevin on twitter @parsnip78

Wild flowers

borage_pagliaro

Edible flowers​
To eat or not to eat?? Pretty garnish or dish component??
Well for me as a child of rural Ireland eating flowers was something that was never done, even now the mention of eating flowers brings strange looks to some people’s faces.
As a general rule flowers were a no go area for us. The echo of my mother “mind my flowers” still rings through my head, also remember a boot or Welly being thrown in the direction of a dog that was taking apart a flower bed.
However as a forager, chef and culinary gangster being open to new items comes almost as second nature at this stage. Many new finds for me are because of the flowers that i noticed them in the first place. Many of these are not just pretty they pack a flavour punch. I no longer fear the flower patch eat the evidence so to speak. Many flowers are beautiful pickled or in a light batter and deep fried.
Are flowers here to stay i believe they are seasonally at least. There are companies dedicated to growing edible flowers for restaurants and hotels. Now it’s a trend that is growing rapidly as well​ as foraging however at a much slower rate, I feel that the vast majority of people could be converted to at least trying a flower, I’m not going to force anybody to eat flowers or only wild food eating .
I think we overlook a lot of the possibility for flavour by not trying flowers either raw or cooked as sometimes they change and often give a beautiful scent to compliment a dish.
Flowers are no longer the reserve of the fancy restaurant even pubs are using flowers now as they are more available to everyone.
Let us know what you think in the comments  @traleeculinarygangsters.com or to me directly @chefpaulc on Instagram and Twitter

Chef matt on been a chef

Hello one and all,

 

My name is Chef Matthew Schutten-Burt. I’m a Canadian chef with 15 years of experience on the line. I’ve worked across the country as well as in the UK. I work, currently, at http://www.garlicsoflondon.com under Head Chef Carla Cooper, where I function as the morning chef. My team and I are responsible for bread shift, desserts, set up, lunch service and all the butchering. Formerly, I was the sous-chef at http://www.dinkels.ca and the attached restaurant, Paulo’s Italian Trattoria.

I was asked to write a piece by Chef Noel on any topic I so chose and I think I’ve come up with an important one for both male and female chefs.

First things first, it’s important to note that I’m not…politically correct. I don’t go out of my way to offend anyone, surely, but I also feel the need to be direct in what I’m going to say because it is of, I believe, utmost importance.

We aren’t going to talk about food today. Nor are we talking about any new technique, method, recipe or ingredient, we aren’t even going to address the Business itself, but rather our actions within it.

Today, now more than ever, our actions are under constant scrutiny. We have health inspectors, TripAdvisor, Yelp and a whole host of food blogs, YouTubers and Twitter users who have the ability to let others know what they think about our food in an instant.

This is on top of the already demanding specifications it takes to make it into the likes of the AA Food Guide, or even appear on Michelin’s radar, and I’d argue the blogger and twitter-er can do more damage to a restaurant than either “major” group can. That is to say, there are plenty of successful restaurants that make their owners millions without a rep ever setting foot in the dining room.

Thus, we come nicely to my topic: professionalism.

What do I mean by this word? Simply this; how we interact with each-other, FOH and our punters, whether behind closed doors or in full view of our dining rooms.

Never before have we been watched so carefully. Our profession, due to the likes of Chef Ramsay and Chef Oliver among others, has been shot to the forefront of pop culture. Yet never more have we been thought of less for our craft and more for the shenanigans that have been brought to light and have, for all intents and purposes, become tropes and memes of culinary culture.

It is expected of us to shout, to scream and the swear. We are expected to belittle our co-workers, to behave as children and over-dramatic actors. It can be argued, and, in fact I AM arguing, that chefs such as Gordon Ramsay have done more harm than good for our trade over the last few years.

Certainly he is innovative, and his food is par excellence, but one cannot, cannot, cannot look away from the antics and showmanship that is demonstrated on American television through Kitchen Nightmares and Hell’s Kitchen.

Is the face that American telly puts on for us our true persona as culinary wolves? No. It is, however, what sells in America. One needs only look as far as what British television shows to know that this isn’t the case. The UK version of Kitchen Nightmares is far different. Being Canadian, I’m blessed to get access to both.

But sadly, it’s usually the vocal, crass and often loud minority that draws attention to itself. The squeaky wheel gets the grease and all that.

But in this case I think it is imperative to be the solution ourselves, rather than just stand by and let the customer and the media portray us how they want. We are professionals and, if you’re reading Noel’s blog, I have to assume you’ve CHOSEN this career path, not been forced into it.

Your pride should genuinely be hurt by the low, base and unexceptional level that is not only expected of us, but (in some cases) looked for.

There is, however, a remedy for this.

We need to treat ourselves, firstly, with respect. It is impossible to function and work in a high-stress, fast-paced, often hot and exhausting environment unless you look yourself in the mirror every day and say “I can do this. I’ve got this. I’m well trained. My crew has my back, and I’ve trained them well. We know our roles, we know our staff, we know our menu.” Only when you can do this can you move on to step two.

Secondly, treat your under-chefs with respect. Don’t talk down to them. Talk WITH them. Certainly, when the heat is on, expect a “Yes, Chef!” from them, but don’t call them out in front of the rest of the crew. That kind of action gets passed around to those who weren’t there as the night’s juicy gossip. Talk to them after service. Work on the issue together, and never in hearing range of others. Most of us have offices. We should make use of them.

Please note there is a caveat here. Some people just don’t fit, and the level of insubordination can get insane. If you must remove somebody from line for the sake of customers and staff, do so. Firmly, calmly. Let them make the noise. Retain your composure.

Thirdly, be kind to your servers and, through them, the customer.

FOH is the link you have to the customer. Without them you can’t get food out of the pass, let alone get orders in to the kitchen. They tell you about allergies, dietary restrictions and modifications. Granted, most of these are irritating, but if the customer comes back, or stays longer buying booze and dessert, who gives a damn? We exist to make money. We have a skill we are passionate about that people are willing to pay for. Respect the servers and the (reasonable requests) of your customers and they’ll be singing your praises.

This may all seem like common sense, but I think it bears repeating. Especially in light of how trainee chefs are coming out of catering college these days. I don’t know the current situation in Europe or in the UK, but here? It’s a disaster.

These…petulant and petty youngsters are coming out like puffed-up little school children, not realizing that finishing catering college is only the first rung on a very, VERY long ladder.

If you’re a trainee chef and reading this, check your ego. I’m not concerned with how good you think you are, there’s always someone else who’s better, and if there isn’t? Quit now. You’ve peaked. It is important to look at every shift, every service, every day as an opportunity to improve upon your skills and learn some new ones. Only then will you begin to be thought of as worth your salt by your superiors.

Bottom line, chefs? Be excellent to each other and your staff. We have little home life, leave our spouses and children alone when we wish we didn’t. We miss birthdays, anniversaries, valentines, new years and football games. We miss Christmas Pantos. We miss baptisms. We miss graduations and vacations.

And sometimes…well, this causes our home lives to collapse. When this happens, we only have each other. Our families extend beyond our homes. You know this. And you know we forgive the worst offences from each other because of it. But, let’s not abuse it, shall we? Each one of us may come to a day where our restaurant family is all we have for that moment.

Until next time, chefs,

 

Take care,

 

Chef Matthew Schutten-Burt

Garlic’s of London

London, Ontario

Canada

 

An Italian breakfast

Traditional Italian Easter Breakfast

 

In Italy, a famous saying goes: “Christmas with your family, Easter with whoever you wish.”

                          

This proverb seems to invite a real exodus from their family environment, but perhaps in Rome and surroundings, is not quite so, because to the Romans, Easter is an important holiday that you get to celebrate since the early morning, with a rich Easter breakfast.

The traditional Roman Easter breakfast is, generally, preparing the table with dishes symbolic of the Christian religion, because this moment (Easter) celebrates the end of fasting and the return to life.

 

The table is completely set because this “breakfast” is very important in the regional tradition, almost more than the classic Easter lunch.

 

 

On the table will be present both sweet dishes and savory dishes.

We will find the typical Pizza battuta, served with chocolate Easter eggs, Pasqualina cake, to match with the Corallina (a type of salami), but definitely not miss the Colomba, the famous Easter cake.

 

 

In addition, the Roman tradition wants that on the table there are some cooked dishes including, for example, the Coratella with artichokes, Frittata with artichokes and boiled eggs to enjoy with cheese pizza.

 

 

Surely you can’t say it’s a light breakfast but the traditions are traditions and as such, we must try to pass them on from generation to generation because it’s nice to continue what our ancestors began. Happy Easter everyone!

P.s.: Don’t forget this breakfast has to be served with a generous glass of wine… maybe two!!

 

Tralee 14/04/2017

Massimiliano Bagaglini

 

Foraging by paul

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Foraging and the know how
I’ve been asked a few times about foraging and the wild food on the menu in the restaurant. The most common of these questions is how do you know it’s safe or indeed if it’s edible at all.
Putting it simply i don’t when I’m identifying new plants and herbs. The truth is 90% of the greens out on the forest, hedge, meadow and seashore are edible, maybe not raw where some tend to be quite bitter and harsh, and cause you to spit it out straight away. However once I’ve identified it, as edible or inedible i can pick more and use them.
Others are more easily identified dandelions, dock leaves and “sticky backs” “robin run the hedge” all are edible although you might not think it due to never having eaten them. Nasturtium leaves and flowers are also edible and again here’s where most people hear their mothers voice stay away from my flowers with that ball or bike or dog.
However if i don’t know what the flower or herb is I take some home and research it “Google it”  look up in one of the wild flower or plant books that i currently own and am waiting on a bigger book to encompass more wild flowers, plants, shrubs, berries etc.
Follow me on Twitter and Instagram @chefpaulc and like the Facebook page Traleeculinaryangsters.com for more interviews from around the culinary world in kerry